Showing posts with label Inside. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Inside. Show all posts

Monday, December 6, 2010

Tacos Arabes: The Inside Story

?A taco arabes from the El Idolo truck, seen by the greenish glow of the street lamp.


"Arab's tacos" were invented in the city of Puebla in the 1930s, the result of Lebanese businesspeople who set up shop selling a lamb-based version of shawarma roasted on a vertical rotating spit using charcoal.

?Around midnight: the El Idolo truck.


The cooking technique became popular throughout the region, and eventually in the rest of the country, although pork -- topped with a slice of pineapple, to tenderize and sweeten the meat as the juice drips down -- eventually replaced lamb as the twirling cylinder of composed meat. Meat cooked this way was eventually designated "al pastor," meaning "shepherd style," the name by which it goes today.

Concurrently, the Lebanese merchants also introduced a bread called pan arabe, which is like a small flour tortilla -- at least that's what it looks like today. Originally, it was probably a normal-looking pita.

The taco arabes as made at Pueblan eateries in the city looks like a small burrito, and is virtually indistinguishable from one, except it lacks rice, beans, and cheese as filler. At the late-night taco truck El Idolo, which parks at the corner of Eighth Avenue and 14th Street, you can have you taco arabes ($3) filled with any of the usual substances, including tongue, chicken, carnitas, carne enchilada, and tinga (a fiery chicken stew), but I recommend the traditional al pastor.

These tacos are also readily available at taquerias along Fourth and Fifth avenues in Brooklyn's Sunset Park.

?A contemporary Arab-Mexican caterer offers to make Arab's tacos in your backyard, and gives us a good look at the portable apparatus that probably resembles the original, introduced into Puebla in the 1930s.

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Sunday, November 21, 2010

A Look Inside The Meadow or, How I'm on My Way to Salt Snobbery

?

I was skeptical of salt snobbery before visiting The Meadow, self-described "selmeliers" Mark and Jennifer Bitterman's new West Village shop specializing in salt. How different is one salt from the next, really? Do you need to own multiple varieties of sodium chloride? Apparently yes.

?

The store, which opened a few weeks ago, carries 120 different salts from around the world organized by cooking purpose. Jars of French sel gris sat next to naturally-formed spheres of white salt from Djibouti, reddish-hued salts from Molokai, and saffron-infused finishing salt.

Also there to help you to cultivate your inner (or outer) food snob is a huge selection of chocolate bars (several of which, like those from Minneapolis-based Rogue Chocolatier, aren't carried anywhere else in New York) and small-batch bitters. And a selection of nicely arranged and pricey flowers because if you like expensive salts and chocolates, you probably also enjoy expensive flowers.

?

As I eyed a gray-hued salt from Japan with small crystals called Takesumi Bamboo salt, Mark Bitterman shared with me the salt's complex manufacturing process. He explained that it was harvested from seawater 3,000 feet deep, after which it was sprayed onto bamboo mats suspended from the ceiling in a greenhouse. Water trickles through the mat and eventually evaporates, leaving only a brine. The brine is then heated in a cauldron and stirred by hand for 3 days. After the water evaporates completely and a salt forms, it's packed inside bamboo canisters and incinerated so that the salt crystals become carbonated and take on a lovely slate color along with bitter and sweet notes. Giving it even more cachet is that the Bittermans are the first people to sell the salt in America. Difficult to make and hard to find? That's the recipe for food snobbery success.

?

Picturing the Japanese salt makers stirring brine by hand for 72 whole hours persuaded me to buy a bottle, even though I balked slightly at the price of $15 for a 1.2 ounce container. But at least I can tell everyone it's worth its salt.

The Meadow
523 Hudson Street
212-645-4633

Have a tip or restaurant-related news? Send it to
fork@villagevoice.com.

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Saturday, November 20, 2010

A Look Inside The Meadow or, How I'm on My Way to Salt Snobbery

?

I was skeptical of salt snobbery before visiting The Meadow, self-described "selmeliers" Mark and Jennifer Bitterman's new West Village shop specializing in salt. How different is one salt from the next, really? Do you need to own multiple varieties of sodium chloride? Apparently yes.

?

The store, which opened a few weeks ago, carries 120 different salts from around the world organized by cooking purpose. Jars of French sel gris sat next to naturally-formed spheres of white salt from Djibouti, reddish-hued salts from Molokai, and saffron-infused finishing salt.

Also there to help you to cultivate your inner (or outer) food snob is a huge selection of chocolate bars (several of which, like those from Minneapolis-based Rogue Chocolatier, aren't carried anywhere else in New York) and small-batch bitters. And a selection of nicely arranged and pricey flowers because if you like expensive salts and chocolates, you probably also enjoy expensive flowers.

?

As I eyed a gray-hued salt from Japan with small crystals called Takesumi Bamboo salt, Mark Bitterman shared with me the salt's complex manufacturing process. He explained that it was harvested from seawater 3,000 feet deep, after which it was sprayed onto bamboo mats suspended from the ceiling in a greenhouse. Water trickles through the mat and eventually evaporates, leaving only a brine. The brine is then heated in a cauldron and stirred by hand for 3 days. After the water evaporates completely and a salt forms, it's packed inside bamboo canisters and incinerated so that the salt crystals become carbonated and take on a lovely slate color along with bitter and sweet notes. Giving it even more cachet is that the Bittermans are the first people to sell the salt in America. Difficult to make and hard to find? That's the recipe for food snobbery success.

?

Picturing the Japanese salt makers stirring brine by hand for 72 whole hours persuaded me to buy a bottle, even though I balked slightly at the price of $15 for a 1.2 ounce container. But at least I can tell everyone it's worth its salt.

The Meadow
523 Hudson Street
212-645-4633

Have a tip or restaurant-related news? Send it to
fork@villagevoice.com.

This entry passed through the Full-Text RSS service — if this is your content and you're reading it on someone else's site, please read our FAQ page at fivefilters.org/content-only/faq.php
Five Filters featured article: Beyond Hiroshima - The Non-Reporting of Falluja's Cancer Catastrophe.


View the original article here